Menus-Plaisirs – Les Troisgros

Wiseman shifts his exquisite gaze from US institutions (Ex Libris – The New York Public Library, SFF 2018) and Parisian cultural life (La Danse, SFF 2022) to the world of French gastronomy. The Troisgros family restaurant in France’s Rhône-Alpes region, founded in 1930, has grown into a huge operation. Wiseman captures it all: from the vast kitchens, budding chefs, dedicated local providores and super-efficient waitstaff to the well-heeled patrons. Michel, the third generation to head the restaurant, is preparing to hand the baton to his son. Wiseman (now 93) delivers a luscious and hypnotic portrait of an enduring institution on the verge of change.